People and places
A visit to the Loire châteaux brings to life important historic events linked to great figures from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. On the other hand, the aura of great authors illuminates the places that inspired them. In Touraine, there are a number of writer’s houses that are well worth a visit.
Rabelais Museum – La Devinière
It is thought that François Rabelais was born at La Devinière, south-west of Chinon. The site consists of several houses formed around a square courtyard: a dovecot, a main building, the tenants’ houses and the winemaker’s house. Above all, the garden opens onto a beautiful view, with the Château du Coudray Montpensier in the distance.
As well as visiting the site and encountering the colourful Renaissance writer, you can follow an educational trail leading to the Abbey of Seuilly with extracts from Gargantua and texts by contemporary writers evoking the novel’s landscapes on a free audio application.
And to round off your visit? Have lunch at L’Auberge du Val de Vienne, before heading for the Cave de la Sibylle and a visit to the land of dreams of Panurge.
Saint Cosme Priory, residence of Pierre de Ronsard
If we had to sum up the spirit of the place in one word, it would be “tranquility”. In fact the canons of the 12th century described Saint Cosme as “a heaven on earth where it is easier to attain the real heaven“.
After an eventful life, particularly alongside King Charles IX during the Wars of Religion, Pierre de Ronsard was given Saint Cosme Priory, at the gates of Tours, and Croixval Priory in Loir-et-Cher. Here on the banks of the Loire, where he welcomed among others Catherine de’ Medici, “the poet of princes and the prince of poets” enjoyed gardening, while continuing to correct and publish his literary works.
Now, a few centuries later, visitors can stroll through 12 themed gardens, enjoy the events regularly organised at the Refectory, and of course immerse themselves in the life of the author of lines that generations of French school children have learned (“Mignonne, allons voir si la rose”):
My sweet, let us see if the rose
that this morning opened
its purple dress to the sunshine
has not this evening lost
the folds of its purple dress,
And its complexion so like yours.
Another writer’s home: the René Descartes Museum
Not far from the beautiful René Boylesve landscaped garden near the River Creuse, this is a cultural site highlighting a figure with wide-ranging talents, since he was a philosopher, mathematician and physicist.
During a visit to the permanent exhibition at the René Descartes House and Museum, the veil will be lifted on the life of the man who said “Cogito, ergo sum” (I think therefore I am), a famous phrase for students as the only certainty resisting methodical doubt: this is the starting point for Descartes’ thought.
Along with the writings of René Descartes, the visit is a chance to explore the schools of thought of the 17th century in their conflicts (some believed, like Aristotle, that the Sun went around the Earth, while Galileo held the opposite view), but also many aspects of history.
One address worth noting to sleep: the Domaine de la Roche Bellin.
The Balzac Museum – Château de Saché
There are two major institutions in Saché: the Balzac Museum and the Auberge du XIIème siècle restaurant. So why not kill two birds with one stone? At the heart of the Indre valley, the sights are truly peaceful and pleasant. It is easy to understand why Honoré de Balzac came here regularly, above and beyond his wish to flee Paris… and his creditors.
A real workhorse, Balzac made no changes to his schedule, but wrote for hours at a time (15, 16 hours in a row and often at night), quaffing coffee, which he loved so much. Here, he worked on his novels “Le Père Goriot” and “Lost Illusions”, but also took inspiration from the area to write “The Lily of the Valley”. Alongside the works of Balzac, a visit to the Château de Saché is also a chance to see furniture transporting you to the heart of the 19th century. A great journey back in time!
Our tip: rent a bike in Azay-le-Rideau, follow the Indre à Vélo trail for 7 km to the museum, then, after the visit, cycle along bike circuit n°17 “in the footsteps of Balzac” (20 km).